Teaching Yoga and Meditation at mount Mahabharat Homestay in Bethanchok Village

For two months I am the resident yoga teacher at the Mount Mahabharat Homestay in Bethanchok, a community of homes on the hillsides outside of Dhunkharka, a small village in the Kavre district of Nepal, about 50 km southeast of Kathmandu.

Opening my heart to what blessings may come… staying warmed by a fire during our late afternoon forest meditation.

Opening my heart to what blessings may come… staying warmed by a fire during our late afternoon forest meditation.

Because the majority of guests are independent travelers, I’ve had the opportunity to connect with each one on a deeply personal level, and to offer yoga and meditation classes tailored to their interests and needs. So far my students have ranged from complete beginners, to people with significant body injuries needing modifications, to those actively practicing and pursuing yoga as part of their lifestyle, and those who have a dedicated meditation practice. But since I’ve been able to have intimate conversations with people about their experience, aims and goals, the classes I’ve been able to offer have been personalized and deeply touching in a way that I haven’t achieved before in a studio setting.

The schedule is fluid. Tea-time is at approximately 7:30, and breakfast is somewhere between 9:30 and 10. This can fluctuate based on whatever else may be happening in the meta-world around us - with the family, with other things out side. Class begins at 8ish, so that we can have tea. Each class begins with a meditation. I invested in a truly amazing singing bowl when I went to Kathmandu, so I’ve been doing sound meditations to start. Then we practice some pranayama (breathwork). These set the stage for asana practice. Each sequence is built around individual students’ needs. It is energizing, challenging, and meditative. Because of the rapport we build, I’m able to be very attentive to students needs in terms of breath work and alignment. At any point we can stop and break down poses. We are able to just move with the flow of the feel of the day... some days I’ll do a gentler Hatha class, other days an energizing Vinyasa flow, or a more disciplined and alignment focused Ashtanga-inspired class. Right now I am so grateful for both the depth and breadth of my yoga training, as it is all synthesizing for me to be able to lead beautiful and individually-tailored experiences.

Depending on students’ interests we’ve been doing an additional yoga or meditation focused activity in the afternoons. This has manifested as afternoon yoga play with arm balances, inversions, and the like, and several walks into the beautiful surrounding forest-jungle that surrounds us. While morning meditations have been guided, these forest meditations have been silent - observing the world around us and our place in it, feeling gratitude to just be in this incredible landscape. 

Clare (UK), Leona (Switzerland), and Hannah (Austria) sit quietly in meditative reflection during a forest hike to a nearby waterfall.

Clare (UK), Leona (Switzerland), and Hannah (Austria) sit quietly in meditative reflection during a forest hike to a nearby waterfall.

These classes are truly special and unlike any I’ve taught back at home in a studio situation. Even back at home when I’ve had small classes of 1-2 people, they have not had the intimate feel of the classes I’ve taught here. Right now I’m feeling super-addicted to continuing to be able to teach yoga like this. The feedback I’ve gotten, through both the words and the shining eyes and glowing faces of my students after class finishes, has also been outstanding. Reflecting on this, I feel like my capability in teaching yoga and guiding meditation has also blossomed into a new level, and its even more exciting to be able to share with people to help them create a peaceful and graceful heart, a lightness of being, and a groundedness in purpose.

You are - exactly - where you need to be. 

Brahmin Ceremony at Mount Mahabharat Homestay

A couple weeks ago was both Kamal’s birthday (he is the head of household at the homestay) and a Vedic holiday. Since his family is of the Brahmin caste (that consists of priests and scholars), a fire ceremony was conducted right in the courtyard area of the home here. 

The men sat around a circle, drawn with powdered pigments sprinkled on the ground to create a mandala. Incense was lit, and offerings were set out in a very calculated manner. There was a mantra of chanting repeating in the background, while some of the men read from sacred texts, chanting other, longer, more complicated sutras. The fire was lit, chanting continued, and offerings were made to the fire. Offerings included fruits, grains, ghee, milk, rupees… This process continued for five or six hours... with a break for lunch, and then things continued until late in the day.

I can’t relate much of the symbolism behind it all, but Kamal wanted photos and said that I could share them, so here is a photo documentary of the ceremony.

Settling into my Homestay in Nepal

It’s been about three weeks since I landed in Nepal, finding myself mostly at a Homestay where I am teaching yoga to the volunteers and visitors that come through here.

While I really have been wanting to post in my blog about the experience, I’ve been having a hard time... there is so much all at once, it is such a new and different culture to have landed into, and every time I begin.. it just doesn’t seem to go anywhere. It’s like there is so much material, constant stimulation and learning of some kind or another, and I am not sure how to put it all into words. Here is my first attempt, so that my future posts may go into some more of the nuances as I am ready to focus on them.

Incoming view on the plane. I’m pretty sure the hills in the foreground emerging from the clouds are pretty close to where I am staying.

Incoming view on the plane. I’m pretty sure the hills in the foreground emerging from the clouds are pretty close to where I am staying.

I actually teared up in awe on the plane when I first saw the Himalayan range - uncontrollably enough that I had to place my shirt over my eyes. It is so beautiful, majestic, and heart-stopping. My window seat was on the left side. I’d been looking out and seeing only lowlands and haze. As we were drawing nearer I wondered why I didn’t see any mountains yet. And then I looked out the opposite window and - bam - big ass mountains. I was seated on the wrong side. But the plane took a wide turn and in front and out my window was a view of the incredible range.

Comforts and discomforts as i Find My Place

Even though travel is rewarding, and overall my experience has been incredible and positive, my first days definitely took some adjustment. I’m just sharing this because so many people can think of travel as a complete blissful experience, but there are hardships and uncomfortable things to overcome as well. The challenge and places of discomfort is where we can grow… I always try to ask myself what is the root of my discomfort, where is it coming from, is it really necessary, and see how I can learn from there. Sometimes I discover something about myself… a place where i can let go of ego, or maybe where a past trauma is surfacing. Other times I can look at the bigger picture, and see that what I am feeling is really not significant or something to worry about in the long run. A lot of times things change as I examine them, either through my perspective evolving, or through actual evolution of a situation.

The family I’m staying with is very sweet and accommodating and I have immense gratitude for their openness, their kindness, and their generosity, but cultural and language differences made it hard to feel comfortable from the start. One of the strangest things to me is that people don’t all really eat together. Guests eat first, and then the family. Sometimes that means I eat alone. I heard from a friend in the city that in some traditional places people from different castes (the caste system exists here too) don’t even eat together. Coming from a place like the farm where I have lived the last few winters, where so many good times are shared over meals, this took some getting used to. Many times there are other visitors here so I eat with them. At first it felt really awkward, especially since we often eat in the main house. But it comes out of a place of respect, there is even a Nepali saying, “Guests are our god.” As I become more connected here, it has become less formal, and I’ve also become more accustomed to how this goes.

Typical view of the village… heavily terraced mountain hillsides, right now covered with blooming mustard flowers.

Typical view of the village… heavily terraced mountain hillsides, right now covered with blooming mustard flowers.

There is only a certain level of interest in English conversation with me - a lot of times I’m sitting there completely in the dark as to what is going on around me. Since I was pretty fluent in Spanish while I traveled in Latin America, and could join in any conversation, this feels so foreign and can be alienating. While I’m trying to learn a bit of vocabulary, it will be impossible, especially without dedicated language classes which are not available in this tiny town, to progress much with a language that is so different. I guess I expected more intentional interaction and cultural exchange, but I suppose the family has enough people that come through that it would be exhausting for them to make an effort like that with each person. As my stay extends, the connections are beginning to form in bits and pieces, communication is increasing in general, and consequently I’m also feeling more comfortable as the invited outsider. In general I’m more of a quiet and observational person, especially as a traveler, and so I start to notice subtle things on a daily basis - things that both solve questions I’ve had as well as create new ones.

The cold added another layer of discomfort which drove me into my room with the space heater on more often than I would have liked. Since we are at 7,000 feet even when a cloud would obscure the sun during the day, or a slight wind would pick up, it would change from feeling nice to nearly frigid in a manner of moments. The blankets would keep me warm enough in bed but there is literally no insulation in the house and there are even openings in the building to the outside where the wood isn’t planed. The wiring wasn’t enough the support all of the heaters when the Homestay was full for a couple nights and it melted out and Kamal (the owner) had to rewire the whole house! Which he did, with a thicker gage wire, quickly and competently. The last week it has warmed up and the days are perfect and the nights cool but no longer frigid and my comfort level has increased dramatically.

A 180 degree view of the Himalayan Range is visible from the top of Mount Mahabharat on a clear day.

A 180 degree view of the Himalayan Range is visible from the top of Mount Mahabharat on a clear day.

Aside from the initial adjustments, the last few weeks have actually brought quite a bit of variety: two attempts (one successful!) to climb the nearby peak for sunrise, several volunteers from many countries (USA, Canada, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, UK, and Nepal) and the opportunity to teach yoga and meditation, a whirlwind trip to Kathmandu, rides on the backs of motos, witnessing a Brahmin Vedic ceremony, interactions with the people of the surrounding village, many walks and explorations in which my feet take me to different destinations nearby, and deepening my own yoga and meditation practice. 

As I quietly observe the daily life here there is  so much opportunity for reflection about ... just life! People of all ages and genders work the fields doing backbreaking work; the fields are designed in efficient and beautiful raised rows that allows for ease of harvesting as well as flooding of the pathways in order to water the deeper roots of the crops. Men, women, and children alike carry huge bundles of freshly cut branches, larger than they are, on their backs, up and down steep hillsides, to bring to feed their cows and buffalo. These are chopped up in these chopper things that you can hear resounding across the mountain. The animals are everywhere: cows “OM” during my yoga classes, goats followed us from the forest back into the village one day, and cluster in front of people’s homes.

Our host Goma as some of the other guests help to shred the biggest radishes I’ve ever seen to dry and preserve them.

Our host Goma as some of the other guests help to shred the biggest radishes I’ve ever seen to dry and preserve them.

Food is so central to culture and life; it is amazing all the processes that happen and energy that is put in to produce, preserve, and prepare it. For days I helped to sort out dried beans - pulling out broken or insect eaten beans... corn is dried on the cob, then shucked, then dried again, then ground into cornflour. The largest radishes I’ve ever seen (and sweetest I’ve ever tasted) are cleaned, and then grated, dried on the rooftops, and then stored for later use. Mustard and other green leaves are also sorted, pounded, and dried to save for year-round use. And the preparation of food seems nearly constant in order to feed the family themselves (of 6) and however many guests, whether local friends, visitors from other parts of Nepal, or international visitors may be here.

Women do all of this work, as well as all of the other housework - cleaning, washing the dishes, laundry (by hand of course), everything to do with raising the children, and even refinishing the earthen floors with a new clean layer of mud every couple of weeks. Women are mostly married by the time they are 18 years old and children soon after; arranged marriages are not uncommon and the girls leave their homes to come and live with their husband’s family. Women also have many certain rules when they are having their periods and cannot touch things in the kitchen as well as many other things I’m not sure of yet. They also are not part of certain ceremonies - when the Brahmin ceremony happened no women were allowed to enter the circle; the prepared all of the food for everyone and made sure everything was attended to. They are such a strong backbone, and do all of this with grace and a selflessness and do not seem to question it. They are all so surprised that I am unmarried and without kids. And I can’t imagine life without the freedoms I’ve been raised with to explore the world and my interests as I’ve been gifted to experience. 

There is so much more, but this is enough for now. 

Reflections On Becoming a Yoga Teacher

Yoga is an expansive discipline, and there are many different avenues and certifications one may choose to study it. There are many branches one may learn about and each of these has interwoven yet distinct philosophies, sacred texts, exercises. While there are a set of common postures, going about them in an Iyengar class will be different than approaching it through Vinyasa. Taking a hot sweaty core power class will engage a completely different student than a yin meditative class. As I learn more and more about yoga, sometimes it is hard to pinpoint what it is, until you go back to the first Sutras:

Yoga is the stilling of the fluctuations of the mind, and with stillness of the mind you come to your own true nature.

Maybe you go about this through an intense asana practice. Or maybe asana simply keeps your limbs flexible and body strong as you go about the rest of your life. Or the physical healing aspects of yoga therapy have moved you through an injury or any type of deep healing. Maybe you love the chanting, the mantra, the kirtan. Perhaps stoking the Kundalini fire is what you love to experience. Or Tantra. Or Bhakti. Whatever it is, with all of the positive results from yoga (I’ve been reading The Science of Yoga by William J Broad lately and it’s been fascinating to be presented with a synthesis that whets the left/sciency side of my brain), both in the mind and body, whatever form someone is drawn to, it seems like a good thing.

Arriving at a place to teach yoga from the heart, from the spirit, and with a depth of knowledge requires a concrete refinement of one’s own practice, which cannot be received through a 200, 300, or 500 hour certificate alone.

When I completed my yoga teacher trainings (200-hour Prana Vinyasa with Monica Mesa and Lily Russo; 300-hour in Rishikesh, India, with a composite of teachers at Chandra Yoga Ashram), they were transformative experiences. And truly, my journey towards teaching was about wanting to deepen my own practice. I only found out that I enjoyed teaching because I was required to through the class. But then… how do I really feel like a teacher?

At what point do I transform from someone who has simply completed some requirements, to someone who can handle all of the nuances in order to competently compose a class, cater to who shows up, offer something new and/or rewarding, understand individual body nuances and guide others into their deepest asana, integrate meditation, introduce philosophy in an authentic and uncanned presentation?

Dangit I can’t even get into Pincha Mayurasana without assistance! –am I a real teacher if I can’t Instagram some fancy poses? (I joke.) I think several other classmates echoed these same questions upon finishing our coursework. What differentiates someone as a yoga teacher, from someone who completes a teacher training?

 

My immersive course in India was completed about 13 months ago. It rocked my world, in so many ways, and continues to as each day I reflect upon the world differently. It is as if now I have a roadmap for life and for navigating obstacles. The challenges still come; they are like lessons, reflections to myself of myself. I see my flaws and pick myself up to try to go at it again. Sometimes I fail – we all do – and sometimes it hurts and sometimes it sucks. But overall the perspective and mindset shift that was initiated has started to snowball into larger change.

 

In the last year my practice has transformed, too. And through that, my teaching has transformed. It has become more confident, just as my understanding of the Sutras and of asana has deepened through daily practice. It has become more healing, just as I’ve learned to heal my sometimes sad spirit and learn forgiveness and acceptance to my body and mind. It has strengthened and been challenging, just as I’ve adopted a more rigorous practice. And it has become more loving, as my own self-love has blossomed and spilled out into friendships, relationships, and the world.

 

When I first started teaching, one thing that motivated me was that it kept my own practice strong. At that point I still was working towards making it habit to do yoga every day. In my first YTT, Monica had a lot of emphasis to teach authentically and to make sure to do your own practice for self care before your offerings to students: you can’t teach if you haven’t developed what you are going to give. Life just had this way of always getting in the way of doing a morning asana practice; it was easy to put off meditation and sleep in a few extra minutes instead. When I had a class scheduled, I made sure to strengthen my practice, even spending days to put together what I thought would be a good sequence or theme.

 

As my growth as a teacher unfolds, I find that I teach because I really feel I do have something to offer. My daily practice has grown and is reflected in my alignment and deepening in postures; in that what feels like an advanced posture has shifted over the last couple years. By using yoga in working through my own struggles, I’ve learned a thing or two and that it can be explored or released together in asana or meditation. Not that I’m perfect, or any better than anyone else. But that by sharing what I do have, hopefully I can help someone else out of a funk in their day or their week, relax their muscles, help them come into an arm balance for the first time, share a smile or some laughter: to be in this space together that is expansive, sharing gratitude that we get to live this world through all of the different stories that create our experiences, that we get to learn whatever our journeys are presenting.

 

What a blessing it is, to be able to share yoga with people – to not be on a righteous path with it, but to be able to share guidance on getting through this world with greater ease, more joy, love that can’t be contained, and maintaining a youthful, supple body to support it all! I’m grateful to teach, and to learn from all of the other teachers I encounter – in all walks of life.

 

May all beings be happy and free.

Adventure to the Lassen

Well, big changes happening. Rather than have a complete summer in Cedar Grove, an idyllic little place deep in Kings Canyon National Park, I’ll be spending the summer botanizing in northern California in Lassen National Forest. Sequoia/Kings will always be so dear to my heart and I will be a part of it and it will be a part of me always. I’m always so sad to leave where I am, because I nearly always love it, but then almost always fall in love again wherever I arrive.

The position is one of those elusive GS-9 field-based seasonal botany jobs. It is a perfect balance of decent pay and doing what I love, packaged into 1039 hours. Unbeknownst to me when I accepted the position, the main focus is surveys for threatened/endangered, sensitive, and special interest species! Because of the volcanic and serpentine soils, and the meeting of the Sierra and Cascade ranges and the Great Basin to the east, there is a great degree of endemism and diversity in the are. This is pretty much what I’ve always wanted in terms of a professional botany position… as soon as I gave up desire for any advancement this too came to me (thank you, India).

As I’ve never been at all to the Lassen area (other than driving by on I-5), it is a brand new adventure and another nook of wild open space and nature to explore. Being based in northeastern California means that the culture will be about as conservative as Nevada and practically as remote. Upon arriving, I’ve found that the bumps they call ‘mountains’ are mostly little rolling hills in comparison to what I was accustomed to in the southern Sierra, and that just as many storefronts are closed as are running businesses. But even in the week that I’ve been here, I recognize there are gems to appreciate in being here.  

I’m exceedingly grateful to have two friends help me shuttle my car and bus along the 8-hour drive to my new home for the summer. Simon and Rob erased any stress I may have had about the journey and it was a blast. I’d been prepared to either take a train or rent a car, but the White Whale (the current temporary name for my bus, credit goes to Major, until I one day come up with a better one. My last car didn’t get a name until 6 months before I sold it, after owning it for 10 years…), well, she seems to attract fans. Since that trip up here was so fun… I’m actually on my first ever weekend getaway with the bus… brought it up to Chester for a couple days. Cheers to more bus adventures, and exploring another piece of the world.

Sinking into the Immersion

Three full days of yoga immersion program are now complete and I'm beginning to sink in to the cadence of things.

Chanting and pranayama begins at 6:30, followed by tea and then Ashtanga. I haven't done much Ashtanga before, and it is HARD! We've barely scratched the surface! I like the challenge of it but I don't see myself following that style of yoga much in the future as it is too rigid for me. For those who aren't familiar, there are 3 series, each progressively challenging, and you follow a set series of postures each time. It is unforgiving... no suggestions to 'walk out your dog' or flow into your first postures as you are warming up! I think that for now it is good training and our teacher breaks down each pose slowly, focusing on alignment and making adjustments.

After some self study time, 300 hour students have a yoga philosophy class with our teacher Siddhartha, who spent considerable time at the original ashram of Neem Karoli Baba. Coincidentally, Neem Karoli Baba is the guru of my American teacher, Monica Mesa, and at her suggestion I visited and had a very powerful experience at his other ashram here in Rishikesh on my first full day here. I'm hoping that the yoga philosophy sessions continue to be so helpful as this is where I seek to have such a better foundation of knowledge, especially from a traditional perspective.

After lunch we get an anatomy class, followed by a Hatha yoga class. The first class was pretty chill (and exactly what I needed!) but yesterdays was intense and today we started advanced poses... (being sore after a bunch of chataurangas didn't help)! After studying Prana Vinyasa style yoga, I fell in love with the movement and flow, but I now have a new appreciation for the subtlety and depth of a good Hatha class and it is really exciting to think about how my practice as well as my teaching style can expand and diversify. I also think about working with people with limitations due to injury or surgery and Hatha is better suited to accommodate people with many levels of ability and flexibility, and for yoga as a therapeutic tool.

After more self study time, we have dinner, then are free to go study more. Some people are taking long breaks to go to the river or go to the city during study time. I'm sure I will too once I get restless but right now it seems so valuable to make use of my time as much as I can. This is truly one of the greatest gifts I have ever given myself. I've never had the opportunity to study without worries or obligations; in college I always supported myself working and also had a million extracurricular activities too. It feels so indulgent, and I am so grateful to each puzzle piece of life that has allowed me to Be Here Now.

Introduction to Yoga Program and Fire Ceremony

After my first introductory day of my yoga program at the Chandra Yoga  School, Inamovible moré tan happy with my decisión to come héroe, and to have chosen this school. When this school was founded, there were only 14 schools of yoga in Rishikesh; now there are a couple hundred. While the instruction has not started, I can tell from how things were conducted in the first day that there is a high degree of professionalism, a great deal of knowledge, and high expectations for how we embody and integrate this experience into our lives as students.  Also, the food is good.

 

There are 12 of us students. We are from 4 continents, and many countries. There are the two Beatrices (best friends, same age) from Sweden, a young German couple, Helena and Toby, who are studying textile design and geology, Laley, an aerial silk dancer from Mallorca, Spain. A couple who teach acroyoga in Indonesia, Julia is a lawyer by day and Alex is originally from Ukraine. Saren from Singapore who has Indian heritage, Claudia from Peru who has studied in Prague and worked three winters in Aspen, Colorado. There are two other Americans: Joseph is a music teacher in Michigan, Leslie is a body worker from Colorado. And me. The collective energy as we gathered for the first time was very positive, easygoing. It promises to be a good group. 

 

We gathered sitting cross-legged around the meal table and a a great spread of Indian lunch: rice, okra, a potato and pepper dish, yogurt, daal, some raw vegetables, chapatti, and tea. We met our hosts, and then they took us to another ashram on the other side of town which is currently under construction. 

 

After a quick tour of the building being constructed, we had a fire ceremony to initiate our time together as students and to call in the deities bless our practice. A Hindu priest led us chanting Sanskrit, reading out of pages of a torn and battered book scarred from countless ceremonies around a fire. Garlands of marigold flowers were draped around our necks by Kali, a teacher at the school. We symbolically cleansed our hands and our inner bodies with water, and then repeatedly offered a collection of earth, herbs, incense onto the marigold-ringed fire as the school's leader, Sushil, poured ghee and small portions of food offerings into the flames. This represents giving nourishment to the deities; as they have no physical bodies, the way they take in the offerings is through the smoke. While there was a lightness to the energy of the ceremony, and laughter was allowed, you could feel a definite vibrational shift from the beginning to the end of the ceremony. 

 

Afterwards, we walked around the land surrounding the ashram, which is a national park where elephants, tigers, buffalo, cows, and all sorts of other creatures roam. It is a beautiful landscape and I was more than grateful to be out of the the city bustle and surrounded by the lush greenery of the countryside. As we drove back some sort of small peacock took flight in front of is which was the most beautiful sight.

 

Snacks of samosas and sweet honey balls were served back at the main facility and that's when we got an outline of our coursework. There are just me and two others who are doing the more advanced 300-hour training, the rest are completing a 200-hour course. For everything, it was like this: "for 200 hours, you will learn 2 mantras a week, for 300 hours, you will learn 3. For 200 hours, you will do all of these uncomfortable practices like snort a string up your nostril and exit it down your throat, for 300 hours you will do all that plus stick a pipe down your throat and pump water out of your stomach." I am sure my colon will be so cleansed by the end of this (Sushil said we won't have any gas problems for the following 6 months! 😉), but these things evoke the most resistance in me. Overall though, it looks intense and I am elated to begin learning. 

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The alter, covered in marigold flowers